This week, we’ve been exploring Finnish design company, Marimekko, well known for creating colorful, often bold patterns and fabrics. While their designs were first made popular in the 1960’s by Jacqueline Kennedy, the bright and vibrant garments remain classic choices, appropriate for any generation. Personally, I love to add a bold pattern or color to my regular wardrobe from time-to-time.

This pattern is a variation of our T-shirt Top, available in Alabama Studio Sewing + Design cut to tunic length. The tunic has a bit of a flare starting at the waist, which makes it comfortable and forgiving. We also have variations of tunics – the Camisole Tunic and the Tank Tunic – available as patterns in Alabama Studio Style.

The role of color and Marimekko influence is obvious when you compare the T-shirt Tunic above with the one below. Both are the same style, same cut, same pattern, but use different color ways.  While both tunics have a white fabric as the reverse appliqué, the tunic above is high in contrast with a navy outer layer and includes the Marimekko-style splash of color. The one below is shown with a Natural outer layer. It is more simple, allowing the bold pattern to blend into the background. Both are equally beautiful. They are simply different statements.

This play on color is one of the things that inspires me most as a designer. Use this project as a way to try your hand at experimenting with new colors and patterns.

SUPPLIES

T-shirt Top pattern, adapted from Alabama Studio Sewing + Design or Alabama Studio Style
Paper scissors
1 yard of 60” wide medium-weight organic cotton jersey for top layer
1 yard of 60” wide medium-weight organic cotton jersey for backing layer
Supplies for stenciling (see page 48 of Alabama Studio Style)
Magdalena Stencil
Button Craft thread
Embroidery Scissors
Hand-sewing needle

Basic sewing supplies: fabric scissors, pins, tailor’s chalk, ruler, rotary cutter, Alabama Stitch Book, Alabama Studio Style, or Alabama Studio Sewing + Design: all three of these books contain the basic sewing and embroidery techniques.

Photocopy your pattern and cut the photocopied pattern to your desired size, cutting as close as possible to the black cutting line. There are two pattern pieces – a front and a back panel – with a 1/4” seam allowance built into all pattern edges.

Lay the top layer of fabric flat and fold to create two layers and position the front pattern on top of that yardage, making sure the pattern and fabric grain lines run in the same direction. With tailor’s chalk, trace around the pattern’s edges, remove the pattern, and cut out the traced pattern, cutting just inside the chalked line to remove it entirely. Repeat this step on the remaining top-layer fabric and then repeat for the back panel. You should have 4 cut panels for your shirt.

Add the stenciling on the right side of the tunic’s top layer only, front and back. Align each cut top layer piece on the corresponding backing-layer piece, with both fabrics facing right side up, then pat the layers into place with your fingertips so that their edges match. Securely pin together the two layers of each piece.

Follow the instructions for reverse appliqué on page 95 of Alabama Studio Sewing + Design and then trim away the excess fabric on the wrong side of your T-shirt panel, keeping 1/4″ outside your stitching line.

Our Marimekko-style appliqué is based on a flower shape. You can easily make your unique appliqué by cutting any shape, floral or geometric, from fabric scraps.

Decide upon the positioning of your Marimekko-style appliqués on the front and back panels of the tunic. We have secured the bottom layer with a whip stitch, and then added each subsequent layer with a straight stitch.

Once you have completed your embellishment, construct your tunic by pinning the two panels, right sides together.

Thread your needle, love your thread, and knot off (see pages 21-22 of Alabama Studio Sewing + Design). Using a straight stitch, begin stitching the pinned pieces together 1/4” from the fabric’s cut edges. Be sure to begin and end the seam by wrap-stitching its edges. Fell your seams by folding over each seam’s allowances to one side and topstitching the seam allowances 1/8” from the cut edges, down the center of the seam allowances, using a straight stitch and wrap-stitching the seam.

TONE-ON-TONE VERSION

For the second/ tone-on-tone version, you follow the same instructions and just eliminate the appliqué.

OUR DESIGN CHOICES

Garment – Casual T-shirt Tunic
Fabric weight – 100% organic medium-weight cotton jersey
Fabric color for outer layer – Navy
Fabric color for inner layer – White
Stencil – Magdalena
Embroidery technique – Reverse appliqué; Cretan stitch used for neckline and armholes – both instructions available in Alabama Studio Sewing + Design
Fabric paint – Navy
Button Craft thread – Navy #13
Seams – Inside Felled
Knots – Inside
Marimekko-inspired appliqué – Rose, Carmine, Coral, and Navy scraps
Rose Appliqué – whip stitch with Dogwood #155 thread
Carmine Appliqué – straight stitch with Red #128 thread
Coral Appliqué – straight stitch with Dogwood #155 thread
Navy Appliqué – whip stitch with Navy #13 thread

OUR DESIGN CHOICES

Garment – Casual T-shirt Tunic
Fabric weight – 100% organic medium-weight cotton jersey
Fabric color for outer layer – Natural
Fabric color for inner layer – White
Stencil – Magdalena
Embroidery technique – Reverse appliqué; Cretan stitch used for neckline and armholes – both instructions available in Alabama Studio Sewing + Design.
Fabric paint  – White
Button Craft thread – White #1
Seams – Inside Felled
Knots – Inside

The Magdalena Stencil is available for purchase in our online store.