In our continuing Makeshift series that demonstrates how design, craft, and fashion can influence on another, we adapt another pattern using Alabama Chanin techniques. This pattern is from Marcy Tilton, a longtime Vogue pattern designer, author of three sewing books, and a name well known to crafters and sewers alike.
As always, we encourage you to use patterns as a source of inspiration rather than absolute guidelines. The more personalization you bring to each piece, the more the final garment will mean to you as the maker—and the more you will elevate the making process.
Marcy Tilton: Vogue Pattern V8499
*2 yards of 60”-wide 100% organic lightweight cotton jersey
1- 40 inch – 1 ½ inch jersey pull
Button Craft thread
Basic sewing supplies: scissors, pins, needles, ruler, rotary cutter
Alabama Stitch Book, Alabama Studio Style, or Alabama Studio Sewing + Design: All three of these books contain the basic sewing and embroidery techniques we used to make our version of these pants.
Note: We omitted the elastic in the waistband—replacing it with a casing that will encompass the entire waist and a 1-½ inch jersey pull. Follow the Vogue instructions exactly as written for everything but the waist finishing and seam allowances. We reduced the 5/8” seam allowances on every pattern piece to 1/4” by removing 3/8” from every seam. Reduce hem by 5/8”.
Hand-sew all seams with a straight stitch, leaving a 1/4” seam allowance, using a single strand of thread on our Alabama Chanin lightweight cotton jersey. We felled our seams for the pants above, but that is a matter of taste and desired style. If you choose to do a floating seam, we suggest reducing the seam allowance or trimming around all seams after completion to reduce bulk.
Leave the hem raw.
Love these! Thanks for showing pants. 🙂
Pants! Finally. Can we see a close up of the waistband treatment? Thanks.
Yes! Could you show us a close up of the waist treatment using the drawstring. Thanks! You used lightweight. Will the medium weight work also?
The drape will be a little different, but single layer medium weight should work just fine. Here’s a detail shot:
You said the pattern was “open-source” but provide a link to a commercial site. I’m not sure I understand.
You are right. Apologies for that… we’ve removed “open-source.” We purchased this pattern.
xoNatalie and all of us @ Alabama Chanin
Love this! I want to fold the Alabama Chanin techniques and concept into my own wardrobe. Hint on this pattern: it runs big, most people can go down a size or two or even more, and it works to nip it in at the back seam if you want, not too much at the side seam as you don’t want the pocket opening too small. I recommend tissue fitting pants to check the fit, and with the work that goes into this, you want to love it. Here is a link to the pattern itself, which has been around for some years: http://voguepatterns.mccall.com/v8499-products-8876.php?page_id=4450&search_control=display&list=0
I LOVE MARCY TILTON PATTERNS!!!!
Thank you so much for your generous information on the pattern. As you can see, everyone here loves your work.
Lovely to read that you want to fold Alabama Chanin into your wardrobe! Come see us sometime in Alabama.
Marcy: I’ve made the pants in this pattern trio so many times. Always with wovens, but I have fallen in love with Natalie Chanin’s techniques and designs. Her newest book is better than ever. Your patterns are always edgy and yet simple to make. Another project on my list!
Oooooooo! Seriously love this. I think I already have this pattern, too.
Finally! I have been playing around with pant patterns for linens to see how I can make them AC style with jersey, great to see that the actual AC has been doing the same. I am completely self-taught so my modification skills are somewhat lacking, I would be over the moon if AC developed a simple, sleek drawstring pant pattern.
I have this pattern, and will make these pants with Chanin jersey. I had already made the skirt in a woven, but felt it came out too big and lacking drape. After being in Paris with the Tiltons, I see that there are plenty of these similar design shapes in France, which is about 2 years ahead fashion wise , according to Marcy Tilton. I am looking for comfortable, yet stylish clothing/patterns with interesting details, outlines and embellishments, like I saw in Paris. Marcy and Katherine Tilton, and Natalie Chanin are fashion forward representing the kind of clothing I want to wear.
Just got the pattern today & have one additional question. Did you keep the darts in on the pant leg side? I’ve also been hoping for some guidance on pants – Thanks so much!
Yes, we did include the darts. We suggest following the step-by-step instructions given with the pattern and reference our blog post. Happy making!
I’m happily sewing these today. Loving this cotton jersey and thread. So satisfying.
I have had that pattern since it was released. Thank you for giving me the inspiration to get it out and sew it.
I am not able to see the detail of the waist treatment that you attached in response to Linda Stutterheim’s request.