Rinne Allen, longtime friend and current collaborator, adopted the phrase “permission to wander” several years ago from her friend, artist Hope Hilton and Hope’s work. As Rinne told The Bitter Southerner, “I think many of us don’t allow ourselves idle time … permission to be idle. We think we have to fill most every hour with productivity. Deciding… Read on

“Cleve Jones and Gert McMullin”, 1987. Photograph by: Deanne Fitzmaurice for the San Francisco Chronicle.  In the early 1980s, Gert McMullin was living in San Francisco, ground zero for a terrifying new disease: Acquired Immunodeficiency Syndrome, or AIDS. Her friend David Calgaro contracted the disease, then another friend, Roger Lyon, and then more and more. As an increasing number of friends got sick, McMullin felt she barely… Read on

We are continually captivated and inspired by the Mexican artist and style icon Frida Kahlo. Frida incorporated personal experiences, relationships, traditional Mexican culture, and political ideologies into her art, and is a representation of fearlessness and authenticity for many in marginalized groups. Frida drew from the deepest emotional elements of her personal life – including her marriage,… Read on

In the vein of our previous posts about The Family of Man and The Family of Woman, we continue our feature series on the books that were published by Jerry Mason and Ridge Press from 1955 to 1979. Family, by Margaret Mead and photographed by Ken Heyman, grew from a student-teacher respect between Mead and Heyman at Columbia University into a twenty-year… Read on

There is no savor more sweet, more salt Than to be glad to be what, woman. –  Denise Levertov  I first purchased The Family of Woman at a used bookstore in Raleigh, North Carolina. It was one of the first photography books, along with The Family of Man, that would become the basis of my now extensive library, moved across the globe with… Read on

Left: “Self Portrait on Geary Street”, 1959 by Imogen Cunningham via the Museum of Modern Art; right: “Magnolia Blossom,” 1925 by Imogen Cunningham via Oklahoma State University Art Collection “I made a lot of mistakes, and I still do. But, I try not to worry about it, because I never will be the perfectionist, and… Read on

The importance of Black women in American life, culture, democracy, and history is undeniable. Even as recent years have brought some recognition, Black women’s contributions remain underappreciated or unspoken.  We still have a long way to go. But these women inspire us to continue the journey toward freedom and equality for all. This month, in… Read on

“Mugshot of Jo Ann Robinson in the wake of the Montgomery Bus Boycott”, February 21, 1956, from Montgomery County Archives via the National Museum of African American History & Culture.  Throughout our series, we’ve heard the stories of three courageous women from the state of Alabama: Recy Taylor, Rosa Parks, and Claudette Colvin. Today we write about Jo Ann Robinson for… Read on

“Lee Bontecou in her Wooster Street studio”, 1963 by Ugo Mulas.  Lee Bontecou was known to use her art to explore voids she found in society and within herself. She blended sculpture with paintings and drawings, often using unconventional materials and processes she developed for her work. She was known as being meticulous with each step in the creation… Read on

Left: Rosa Parks 7053 Tee, a collaboration between Alabama Chanin and basic. benefitting the Equal Justice Initiative; Right: “Montgomery, Alabama, police photo (mug shot) of Rosa Parks”, February 21, 1956 from Alabama Department of Archives and History.  In the iconic booking photograph of Rosa Parks shown above, taken February 21, 1956, she is recorded as prisoner “7053” after being… Read on

Claudette Colvin, aged 13, in 1953. (Public Domain) In our series honoring the significant contributions of Black women and their interconnectedness—the persistence of their struggle for freedom—we’ve written about Recy Taylor and Rosa Parks. Today we share the story of Claudette Colvin.   Claudette Colvin was thinking about her history class when she changed history. On March 2, 1955, Claudette Colvin… Read on

Left: “Ruth Asawa amid her works”, 1954. Photographed by Nat Farbman/Time & Life Pictures via New York Times; right: “Untitled (S.270)”, 1954–1958 by Ruth Asawa via Whitney Museum of American Art  NOTE: At the same time we were working on this post, a New York Times article titled “The Japanese-American Sculptor Who, Despite Persecution, Made Her Mark” published on July 20,2020. It’s wonderful and timely… Read on

Rosa Parks being fingerprinted on February 22, 1956, by Lieutenant D.H. Lackey as one of the people indicted as leaders of the Montgomery bus boycott from Associated Press; restored by Adam Cuerden.   We continue to honor not only the significant contributions of Black women, but also their interconnectedness—the persistence of their struggle for freedom. We previously shared the… Read on

In 2017 and on a trip to New York City, I visited the Brooklyn Museum to view Georgia O’Keeffe: Living Modern. It was a beautiful spring day and before the thought of social distancing would come to rule our world. I was with a friend; we weren’t in a hurry.  As I passed the entrance… Read on

Mrs. Recy Taylor, 1944, credit: The Rape of Recy Taylor; From The People’s World/Daily Worker and Tamiment Library/Robert F. Wagner Labor Archives, New York University Over the coming weeks and months, we will honor the significant contributions of four Black women and their interconnectedness—the persistence of their struggle for freedom. We are going to tell… Read on

Left: Kady Vandeurs and Marsha P. Johnson at gay rights rally at City Hall, 1973. Manuscripts and Archives Division, The New York Public Library. Right: A photograph of the Stonewall Inn, famed and widely recognized after the events of June 28, 1969, which would change the public conception of LGBTQ peoples in the United States; Diana Davies, copyright owned by… Read on

The fabric tells a story. In the careful stitches, the colors, the pieces, a narrative takes shape. The blue water, the bright sun overhead, the American flag. In the center, a black fist holds a red lightning bolt. Harnessing power, and powerful itself.   This fabric is a quilt, designed by Ruth Clement Bond, one of six so-called… Read on

“She was the first to ever love me.”  We have the deepest appreciation for the women and mothers who birthed us, nurture us, and continue to care for and love us. We look up to them every day, and today, we share stories and works of art that celebrate them:   Never a Pal Like Mother:… Read on

American conceptual artist Jenny Holzer finds her outlet in words. She started out making large-scale public installations, pasting signs in public spaces, guerrilla style. She has used billboards, t-shirts, books, video, and—notably—LED signs to get her messages across. Her focus is exploring the power of language and how it helps us communicate, but also to… Read on

We’ve been partnering with friend and fellow Alabamian Gina Locklear of Little River Sock Mill for four years to create a line of Made in the USA, organic cotton socks that complement our collections. Our most recent designs (stripe shortie, crew, and tall) launched alongside the Leisure Collection last month and match the quality and… Read on

When she began her art career, Swoon (born Caledonia Dance Curry) never tagged her art, opting to leave her pieces anonymous. She came up with the “street” name in a dream and began to use the tag which, because it is not gender-specific, led many observers to think the artist was a man—an unexpected advantage… Read on

Gloria Steinem was born in 1934, the daughter of a traveling salesman and the granddaughter of activist Pauline Steinem. Pauline was chairwoman to the educational committee of the National Woman Suffrage Association, a delegate to the 1908 International Council of Women, and the first woman to be elected to the Toledo Board of Education. She… Read on

African-American journalist Ethel Payne was born in 1911, the granddaughter of slaves and the fifth daughter in a large family. Her father, who worked in a stockyard and was a Pullman porter, died when Ethel was 46 and Ethel’s mother became a domestic worker to support the family. There was little money for education so after high school, Payne began… Read on

Even in today’s relatively progressive world, female journalists often face discrimination or are corralled into writing or producing material that is meant to appeal to the so-called feminine point-of-view. As we recently highlighted, there are those like Christiane Amanpour who have worked hard to challenge the status quo. But for every Amanpour, there is another… Read on

Margaret Bourke-White, born in the Bronx in 1904, was one of the earliest prominent female photographers – working for a number of notable publications, primarily LIFE magazine. Though she studied photography in college, she was uninterested in pursuing it as a profession until long out of school. Eventually, she formed her own company, with Otis… Read on

The newsroom has traditionally been a “boys’ club”—and we are just beginning to see a shift in this mindset, both on cable and network news. For decades, Christiane Amanpour has been challenging that norm as a prominent news correspondent and a leader and role model for women (and all journalists) all over the world. Growing… Read on

Tanzila Khan was born in Sialkot, Pakistan, and a physical disability has confined her to a wheelchair since birth. Her activism began early in her life, as she was on the receiving end of discriminatory practices. In Pakistan, those with disabilities are often relegated to a lower status and their needs and desires are rarely… Read on

First Lady Elizabeth Anna (aka “Betty”) Ford served alongside her husband, Gerald Ford, the 38th President of the United States, from 1974 until 1977. Unlike many First Ladies before her, Betty was outspoken and approachable, tackling many thorny issues of the time. Born Elizabeth Bloomer in 1918, Ford studied dance with, among other instructors, the… Read on

There is an incredible number of social and environmental issues being poorly addressed in America, perhaps few so serious as the current water crisis in Flint, Michigan. Activist Melissa Mays has been a loud voice amid the chaos, one sometimes inconvenient to government officials. But with her family and her community at risk amid one… Read on

Did you know that (per the Indian Law Resource Center) more than 4 out of 5 American Indian and Alaska Native women have experienced violence, and more than 50% have experienced sexual violence? Were you aware that, according to the Center for Disease Control, the third-leading cause of death for Native American and Alaska Native… Read on

In the late 1950s, Jane Goodall visited Kenya at the urging of a friend, not knowing that her life’s work lay just ahead. She fostered a love for all animals since early childhood and, while there, summoned the courage to reach out to famous anthropologist Louis Leakey, whose fossil discoveries documented that modern man’s origins… Read on

Photograph © Condé Nast: “Rachel Carson, Washington, D.C., 1951” by Irving Penn Rachel Carson’s childhood was spent in a smoky suburb of Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, far from the seas and oceans that would one day capture her heart. Her home was near the local glue factory, where she would watch slaughtered horses fed by conveyor belt… Read on

“All black art is political. I think our very presence is political. Anyone that is able to establish a voice and a consistent presence and put their voice forth is doing something radical and political with their very presence.” – Ava DuVernay Filmmaker Ava DuVernay was born in 1972 in Long Beach, California, and raised… Read on

“What does my death matter, if through us, thousands of people are awakened and stirred to action?” – Sophie Scholl These were the words of Sophie Scholl, a 21-year old leader of an Anti-Nazi rebellion movement in the 1940s. Sophie, her brother Hans, and their friend Christoph Probst, were executed by Nazi party officials in 1943,… Read on

Champion of women’s suffrage, Emmeline Pankhurst was born in 1858 in Manchester, England, to radical politically active parents. When she was 14 years old, they opened her eyes to women who were fighting for the right to vote – a cause she immediately took up and advocated for the rest of her life. When Emmeline… Read on

Born a slave in Holly Springs, Mississippi, in 1862, Ida Wells was the child of politically active parents, and her life was an example of that influence. Her father James, after being freed from a lifetime of slavery, was involved in the Freedman’s Aid Society, and he helped found and served on the first board… Read on

In Norwich Castle Museum in England, you can find several textiles made by a woman named Lorina Bulwer—embroideries that might be seen as messages of protest or anger. Of the three wool and cotton-scrap pieces, two are square images of arguing men, and the others are scrolls made of scraps, heavily embroidered with stream-of-consciousness-like text…. Read on

“We presented Southern white racists with a new option: kill us or desegregate.” “Who the hell is Diane Nash?” Robert Kennedy Jr. asked his then-special assistant John Seigenthaler in 1961. At the time, Nash was helping to coordinate the legendary Freedom Rides, filling buses with black and white activists protesting the lack of desegregation enforcement…. Read on

American artist Louise Nevelson has been an inspiration for several elements of our style aesthetic for some time now. The textural and stylistic elements of her sculpture have found their way into our collection a few times, particularly with the Tweed fabric design in our Bridal + Eveningwear Collection. Its sculptural qualities can find parentage… Read on

Paradise Under Reconstruction in the Aesthetic of Funk—that is the name of fiber artist Xenobia Bailey’s ongoing cultural art project. It’s colorful, challenging, multi-disciplinary, and incredibly difficult (if not impossible) to categorize. Bailey’s primary media are yarn and fabric and most of her pieces are crochet or knitted. She often uses concentric circles or repeating… Read on

“Remember, this is your day and your world.” —Amelia Boynton One of the most famous photographs taken of “Bloody Sunday”, when state troopers brutally assaulted civil rights marchers in Selma, Alabama, shows an unconscious woman—dressed in heels, gloves, and a formal hat—being cradled and protected by a fellow marcher. That woman was Amelia Boynton, an… Read on

As part of Black History Month, we are highlighting several women with connections to our region who made—and are making—significant contributions to the modern Civil Rights movement.

If you are a member of the Southern Foodways Alliance or a fan of the Bitter Southerner, as we are, you likely already know the work of Pableaux Johnson. During the 2015 SFA Symposium, he shared a short film about Hurricane Katrina and its aftermath and celebrated the city’s resilience with a helping of red… Read on

First published in 1965, Anni Albers’ seminal book, On Weaving, is both a thoughtful meditation on the art of weaving and a beautiful photographic collection of historical craftsmanship. Albers, who we have written about in the past (and used as inspiration for some of our own work) was part of the Bauhaus movement and one… Read on

Our Collections feature new garment styles, including different varieties of smocks—inspired in part by the workwear of seminal female artists like Lee Bontecou, Louise Bourgeois, and Barbara Hepworth. Hepworth particularly kept to a distinctive style of work garments like aprons, hooded jackets, and the beloved smock. Hepworth was a British sculptor whose career spanned five decades,… Read on

This post has been updated from the original post on October 17, 2017. We’re revisiting our love of Lee Bontecou as our most recent Marine update is inspired by the words and life of Zora Neale Hurston, and the artistry of Vija Celmins (more coming soon), and Bontecou. Lee Bontecou has always been difficult to categorize, as her work reflects elements of Minimalism, Abstract Expressionism, and Feminist art. She was a true pioneer in the… Read on

If you attended or read about any of our Makeshift events, you already know how much we respect and admire designer Maria Cornejo. She has been both conscious and vocal about fashion’s impact on the environment for many years—certainly before “sustainability” became a buzz word. Much of her design approach focuses on efficiency, and so… Read on

“Nothing is less real than realism ― details are confusing. It is only by selection, by elimination, by emphasis, that we get the real meaning of things.” – Georgia O’Keeffe Georgia O’Keeffe is undoubtedly considered one of America’s greatest and most influential painters. She was a key figure in the emergence and advancement of American modernism… Read on

Alabama artist Mose Tolliver was known primarily for his paintings of birds, frogs, flowers, and erotic figures. An exhibition at Institute 193 in Lexington, Kentucky, earlier this spring shed much deserved light on an often overlooked segment of his output—his self portraits. Tolliver was born one of twelve children to tenant farmers in the Pike… Read on

In 1971, Robert Tharsing moved to Lexington to work as a painting instructor at the University of Kentucky. Geographically, he was thousands of miles from his home state of California; culturally he was perhaps even further removed. On the West Coast, he had grown up near Los Angeles and later studied painting at UC Berkeley… Read on

We are continually intrigued by artists who conceive new ways to create old-fashioned arts. Cross stitch, which is one of the oldest forms of embroidery, was originally used to embroider textiles in ancient Egypt and China. Today, it is often used as a way to decorate clothing and fabric with flowers or patterns. Recently, Spanish… Read on

Among many recurring subjects in Frida Kahlo’s artwork are flowers, foliage, and fruits. She used this imagery to celebrate Mexican history and culture. The garden at her home, Casa Azul, was first started by her parents and was filled with ivy, roses, and apricot and orange trees. As an adult, Frida and her husband Diego… Read on

“Of all the pitfalls in our paths and the tremendous delays and wanderings off the track, I want to say that they are not what they seem to be. I want to say that all that seems like fantastic mistakes are not mistakes; all that seems like error is not error. And it all has… Read on

“Clothes are for real live women…They are made to be worn, to be lived in.” – Claire McCardell Claire McCardell is effectively the founder of American ready-to-wear fashion. Working from the 1930s through the 50s, McCardell was innovative because she designed clothing that was fashionable but also allowed women to move, breathe, and generally live… Read on

John Paul White spent years of his life on the road. Formerly one-half of the prolific duo The Civil Wars, it was not unusual for him to spend 300-plus days a year on tour. Once that project came to an end, White returned home to Florence and began a period of centering himself, settling in… Read on

“He who knows how to appreciate color relationships, the influence of one color on another, their contrasts and dissonances, is promised an infinitely diverse imagery.” – Sonia Delaunay Sonia Delaunay (1885 – 1979), alongside her husband and fellow artist Robert Delaunay, co-founded the Orphism art movement, an offshoot of the Cubist style that focused on… Read on

Alison Saar, contemporary sculptor and mixed-media artist, was born to acclaimed assemblage artist Betye Saar and Richard Saar, a painter and conservator. In her work, Betye (now 90-years old) often addresses the journey and identity of the African American woman—concepts that Alison has built upon as she explores her own family and racial identity through… Read on

“A longing for excitement can be satisfied without external means within oneself: For creating is the most intense excitement one can come to know.” – Anni Albers Anni Albers was a multi-disciplinary artist best remembered for her work in textile design. She trained at the Bauhaus school in Germany, where she met her future husband and… Read on

Some subjects are so polarizing that almost any discussion of them is fraught with tension or awkwardness. And so it is with the topic of gun violence. No matter what your stance is, whenever we are faced with a tragic mass-shooting incident, many of us feel powerless; we respond with anger or by shutting the… Read on

If you’ve spent any amount of time listening to public radio, you become acquainted with or even attached to the sound of a host’s voice. The introduction to a show or podcast becomes familiar, like memorized lyrics to a song, and the host’s voice becomes as recognizable and comforting as a friend’s. For instance, so… Read on

In the years since we met Rosanne Cash, we have grown from giddy fans, to dedicated admirers, to proud and honored friends. It is no secret how much we are inspired by Rosanne—as a supporter, an artist, and a beautiful person. We’ve done our best to express our admiration whenever the opportunity arises. We are… Read on

Rinne Allen and Alabama Chanin first crossed paths almost a decade ago, when Rinne attended one of Natalie’s early “Alabama Adventure” weekends—which included picnics, short workshops, music and storytelling. (Those early weekends became what is now our annual company picnic + workshop weekend.) After that, it seemed that we began to cross paths more frequently—at… Read on

Over the last five years, our work with Cathy Bailey and Robin Petravic has been some of the most productive, exciting, and meaningful work that we’ve had the opportunity to do. Robin and Cathy are husband and wife, parents to Jasper, writers of the new book, Tile Makes the Room, and the owners and operators… Read on

I have known many storytellers in my life. Some have a natural and unrehearsed style that feels captivating and immediate; some present new or unfamiliar points of view; others are quite deliberate and thoughtful in approach; all of them are enthralling to me. As a storyteller born into a family of storytellers, I find master… Read on

Georgia Gilmore worked at the National Lunch Company in Montgomery, Alabama, cooking her renowned fried chicken for both white and black patrons. During the Montgomery Bus Boycott of 1955, she brought home-cooked meals to mass meetings. This evolved into what became known as,“The Club from Nowhere,” an underground fund-raising effort built on her delicious cakes… Read on

Updated on 07/31/23 VS

Above: Fashioning America: Grit to Glamour, edited by Michelle Tolini Finamore. Read (or listen) along with us. #AlabamaChaninBookClub(Updated August 21, 2023) Some of the links below contain affiliate links. By purchasing a book or audio recording at these links, Alabama Chanin, The School of Making, and Project Threadways may receive a portion of the purchase… Read on

Follow along on Instagram for more inspiration and stories we love.@alabamachanin Natalie Loves: Emma Thompson in Good Luck to You, Leo Grande. #oscarworthy Stream the film on Hulu (and watch for a scene featuring one of our favorite hometown hits, “Always Alright” by the Alabama Shakes).  Read: “Emma Thompson and the Challenge of Baring All… Read on

Follow along on Instagram for more inspiration and stories we love.@alabamachanin Closely Crafted is a newly launched non-profit organization dedicated to preserving and revitalizing craft in the American fashion industry. By nurturing artisan equity and critical awareness of the craft, Closely Crafted is working to build a sustainable future for our industry and empower the… Read on

Left: “Untitled”; Right: “Buds”, 1959 by Agnes Martin. From Agnes Martin, 2015 edited by Frances Morris and Tiffany Bell (pages 50–51).  “Beauty is the mystery of life. It is not in the eye, it is in the mind.” — Agnes Martin As we usher in June, we’re happy to celebrate Pride Month and the LGBTQIA+ community. This week… Read on

Lead image: “The Wall #2”, 1962 by Agnes Martin from the National Museum of Women in the Arts.  “I do know one thing about me: I don’t measure myself by others’ expectations or let others define my worth.” ― Sonia Sotomayor  HISTORY describes Women’s History Month as a time to “reflect on the often-overlooked contributions of… Read on

From top left: Luna Rae Top in White Gold Palm; The Willie Top in Blue Slate; Waffle Caftan in Natural; Lightweight Organic Cotton Face Mask in Black; Left and bottom right: Lee Dress, 2017; Top right: Chandler Jacket and Austin Skirt, 2018 by Natalie Chanin for Alabama Chanin from The Women who Revolutionized Fashion: 250… Read on

“Untitled”, 1947 by Ruth Asawa at Black Mountain College; Keyhole Dress Kit from The School of Making; Left: “Group IX/UW, The Dove, No. 12”; Right: “Group IX/UW, The Dove, No. 13” from The SUW/UW Series, 1915 by Hilma af Klint. Photograph from Hilma af Klint: Paintings for the Future, 2018 by Tracey Baskhoff for The… Read on

“A spider’s—or a painter’s—fleeting stab at perfection is a negligible stitch in an unbounded fabric. Its only significance lies in our own momentary, mortal gaze as we reckon with eternity.”  — Peter Schjeldahl  It is summertime in the early aughts, late evening. I am in New York City, and I’m riding my 1971 Schwinn Stardust bike on… Read on

Left: Image of Natelie’s card from her spring 2017 visit to the We Wanted a Revolution: Black Radical Women, 1965 – 85 exhibit at the Brooklyn Museum. Pictured: Faith Ringgold (right) and Michele Wallace (middle) at Art Workers Coalition Protest, Whitney Museum, 1971. Digital C-print. Photographed by Jan van Raay.  Right: “Free, White and 21”,… Read on

Explore DIY Kits here and find more making and design inspiration below. MAKING, DESIGN, + INSPIRATION

“Each time a woman stands up for herself, she stands up for all women.” – Maya AngelouJoin us today in celebration of International Women’s Day and explore our #THOSEWHOINSPIRE series on the Journal.

When she was a teenager, Guadalupe Rivera Marin moved to her father and stepmother’s home in Coyoacan, Mexico City—a home that was well known by friends and neighbors both for its famous occupants and the opulent parties they loved to throw. Guadalupe’s father was muralist Diego Rivera and his wife was painter Frida Kahlo, both… Read on

“The Spider is an ode to my mother. She was my best friend. Like a spider, my mother was a weaver. My family was in the business of tapestry restoration, and my mother was in charge of the workshop. Like spiders, my mother was very clever. Spiders are friendly presences that eat mosquitoes. We know… Read on

“I fell in love with black; it contained all color. It wasn’t a negation of color. It was an acceptance. Because black encompasses all colors. Black is the most aristocratic color of all… You can be quiet, and it contains the whole thing.” – Louise Nevelson American sculptor Louise Nevelson became known for her large, three-dimensional… Read on